2025 Timbersled Ripper Owner’s Manual

The Timbersled Snow Bike system is designed to be attached to a variety of host bikes.

Your snow bike is propelled by a revolving track that must be partially exposed for proper operation.

Operating a Timbersled requires skill and balance for proper control. Rider positions may vary with experience and the features available on some models, but under many conditions the proper position is to be seated with both hands on the handlebar grips for proper throttle, brake, and steering control. See your host bike’s owner’s manual for the proper riding position.

This Timbersled is designed for a single rider only. Never carry a passenger on this vehicle.

For your safety, always ride in a group. Always tell someone where you’re going and how long you expect to be gone. If it isn’t possible to ride with others, and you must travel into remote areas, always carry survival equipment that’s appropriate to the conditions you may encounter. Such equipment may include, but is not limited to: extra clothing, a sleeping bag, a flashlight, food and water, a signaling mirror, a means of building a fire, and a two-way radio or cellular telephone.

Always carry the owner’s manual on your snow bike. For added protection, purchase and carry the following items on your snow bike as well:

• Extra Set of Spark Plugs

• Tow Rope

• Extra Oil

• Fuel Deicer

• Winter Survival Kit

• Spare Drive Chain

• Spare Chain Case Chain (if equipped)

• Trail Map

• First Aid Kit

• Tool Kit

Always observe all state and local laws governing snow bike operation and speed limits. Always be alert and pay attention to the trail ahead. If your speed is 40 mph (64 kph), your snow bike is traveling about 60 ft (18 m) per second. If you look back for only two seconds, your snow bike will travel about
120 ft (36 m). If your speed is 60 mph (96 kph), your snow bike will travel about 180 ft (55 m) in two seconds.

Traveling at night requires extra caution. If your host bike is equipped with a headlight, check the headlight and taillight to ensure proper operation, and don’t over-drive your headlight beam. Always be able to bring your snow bike to a stop in the distance illuminated by the headlight.

Always be aware of surroundings and terrain when riding your snow bike. Hazardous obstructions may be hidden beneath the snow. Striking a hidden obstacle could cause loss of control of your vehicle and lead to serious injury or death. Remain in established riding areas wherever possible to reduce exposure to hazards. Changes in snow condition can greatly increase the likelihood of impact from objects hidden beneath the snow. Take care when riding in light, fluffy snow as it can easily conceal hazards from view and your snow bike will ride lower in the snow.  Early- and late-season riding also increases risk of hitting objects when snow is fresh or starting to melt. Reduce speed and use extra caution whenever riding in these conditions.

Slow down when traveling near poles, posts, or other obstacles. Be especially alert if you’re snow biking after dark. Always be on the alert for wire fences. Single strands are especially dangerous, since there may be a great distance between posts. Guy wires on utility poles are also difficult to distinguish.

Make sure the way is clear before crossing railroads and other roads and highways. The noise of your snow bike will drown out the sound of approaching vehicles. Look ahead, behind, and to both sides before turning or crossing railroad tracks or highways. Steep embankments may also hide your view. Always leave yourself a way out.

Variances in snow depth and/or water currents may result in uneven ice thickness. You may drown if you break through the ice. Never travel on frozen bodies of water unless you have first verified that the ice is sufficiently thick to support the weight and moving force of the snow bike, you and your cargo, together with any other vehicles in your party. Always check with local authorities and residents to confirm ice conditions and thickness over your entire route. Operators assume all risk associated with ice conditions on frozen bodies of water.

When teaching inexperienced operators to ride, set up a predetermined course for practice. Make sure they know how to drive and control the snow bike before allowing them to make longer trips. Teach them proper snow bike courtesy, and enroll them in driver’s training and safety courses.

Safe operation of this rider-active vehicle requires good judgement and physical skills. Operators with cognitive or physical disabilities have an increased risk of loss of control, which could result in serious injury or death.

Mountainous terrain operation, even for experienced riders, can present conditions and situations that could result in serious injury or death. Please review all of the information about riding in mountainous terrain on the following pages of this manual.

The avalanche information provided in this manual should be considered basic information and is not intended to replace your participation in an avalanche safety training course. After reviewing the avalanche information in this manual, be sure to participate in an avalanche safety training course before riding in mountainous terrain. The training course will provide more information as well as the opportunity to practice riding and using proper search and recovery techniques.

For more information, education, training courses, and links to international resources, visit www.avalanche.org .

Before driving, manually turn the ski to the left and right to be sure ice and snow are not interfering with full left and right steering. If difficulty is encountered, remove ice and snow build-up that may be obstructing the steering linkage or front ski and skags.

Driving in too little snow will result in excessive wear and damage to the front ski and skags. The Timbersled Ripper is designed to be ridden in inadequate snow conditions or no snow when the front ski is removed and front host bike wheel is installed.

If the snow bike becomes stuck in snow, clear the track and tunnel area of snow, then step down the snow in front of the snow bike so that when the throttle is opened, the snow bike will be able to climb up and over the snow.

When riding downhill, shift your weight to the rear of the snow bike and reduce your speed to a minimum. Apply just enough throttle to keep the engine from stalling, allowing the engine’s compression to help slow the snow bike and keep it from rolling freely downhill.

Use extra caution when operating in hilly terrain. If climbing a hill is unavoidable, keep your weight low and forward. If you must cross the face of a slope, keep your weight on the uphill side of the snow bike to maintain proper balance and avoid possible roll-over.

Slow down when reaching the crest of a hill. Be prepared to react to obstacles, sharp drops or other people or vehicles that may be on the other side of the hill.

If you’re unable to continue up a hill, turn the snow bike downhill before it loses momentum. If this isn’t possible, spin the track just enough to dig in to prevent it from rolling back down the hill. Stop the engine. Keeping away from the downhill side of the snow bike, pull the rear of the snow bike around and point the front end and skis downhill. Remount the snow bike, restart the engine, and descend the hill carefully.

Whenever your snow bike has been parked for a length of time, especially overnight, always make sure the ski and track are loosened from ice and snow before attempting to drive. Apply the throttle with enough authority to put the snow bike into motion, but always operate within safety limits.

While much control and maneuverability is achieved through the steering system and ski, maximum control is achieved by the shifting of your body weight. Maneuverability will change for lighter operators.

Every snow bike handles differently, and even the most benign conditions may become dangerous if operators drive improperly. If you’re new to snow biking, acquaint yourself with the snow bike and with what it will and won’t do under various conditions. Even seasoned drivers should spend some time getting the feel for a snow bike before attempting ambitious maneuvers.

• A snow bike depends on the rider’s body position for proper balance in executing turns, traversing hills, etc. Always start on a smooth, level area to begin building your operating experience.

• Before allowing someone else to use your snow bike, know the extent of their operating skills. Check to see if they’ve taken a safety course and have an operator’s certificate. For their protection, as well as yours, make sure they take a safety course. Everyone can benefit from the course.

• Use extreme caution when jumping your snow bike over large drifts or similar terrain.

• Be courteous to oncoming traffic by dimming your headlights (if equipped) and reducing your speed.

• When traveling in a group of snow bikes, don’t tailgate (follow too closely). Leave enough distance between snow bikes to provide ample stopping room and to provide protection from flying snow and debris. Allow even more distance when driving on slippery surfaces or when driving in darkness or other low visibility conditions. Be aware of any traffic around your vehicle. Drive defensively to avoid accidents.

• If equipped, remove the key from the ignition when you leave the snow bike unattended.

Do NOT ride your snow bike up or down any ramp while loading and unloading.

Always walk next to your snow bike while loading and unloading using ramps.

The following information is provided to help you determine when temperatures become dangerous for riding.

Safety and warning labels have been placed on the vehicle for the operator’s protection. Make sure the operator understands the information on all labels. If any label becomes illegible or comes off, contact your Timbersled dealer for a replacement. Replacement safety labels are provided by Timbersled at no charge. The part number is printed on the label.

The safety labels are located on the tunnel/cowling of your snow bike.

Timbersled recommends carrying a few tools to work on the snow bike kit when in the backcountry. These tools will take the entire snow bike kit apart.

• Wrenches: 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm, 16 mm, adjustable wrench

• Torques: T25, T27, T30, T40

• Hex Keys: 4 mm, 5 mm

• Other Tools: flat blade screwdriver, pliers

The Timbersled snow bike system is designed to be attached to a variety of host bikes. So it is just as important for you know your host bike as it is for you to know your Timbersled snow bike system. Be sure to read and understand your host bike’s owner’s manual, and follow all safety and maintenance information to avoid serious injuries.

Squeeze the brake lever toward the handle bar to make your Timbersled bike slow down or stop.

The cowling is a covering designed to fit around your bike’s engine.

When you turn the throttle, the track turns to make your bike move forward.

The spindle attaches the ski to the bike’s front forks which allows the handlebars to control the ski.

The Drive Chain drives the snow bike track by passing over sprockets rotated by the engine.

Shocks are part of your snow bike’s suspension and keep the bike stable to ensure a safer and smoother ride.

The rail is the metal structure that the track runs around. The track rail is fitted with wheels which run along the bottom of the rail to prevent track and rail wear.

The track tensioning block can be adjusted to apply more or less force on the snow bike track to maintain proper track tension.

The ski helps you steer your Timbersled snow bike. When you turn the handlebar, the ski turns in the same direction.

Ski Skags are replaceable runners bolted to the underside of the ski. Skags prevent damage to the ski and help to properly steer your snow bike.

The shock installed on Timbersled Ripper snow bikes is equipped with a spring preload adjuster. For factory spring settings, see the Shock Spring Settings table.

ADJUSTING THE SUSPENSION

For those that wish to customize the ride quality of their snow bike, complete the following procedure:

1. Ride your snow bike. Test ride your snow bike on preferred terrain to feel out the factory suspension settings prior to making any adjustments. Optimal suspension settings can change depending on terrain and skill level.

2. Turn bike on side or elevate so shocks are fully extended.

   NOTICE

   Always perform shock spring preload adjustments with the weight of the vehicle removed from the shock and the shock is at full extension. Make spring preload adjustments in small increments (approximately 1/16th of an inch) and test ride quality between adjustments.

3. Tune vehicle using the shock preload adjuster 1.

   • For smaller or less aggressive riders, reduce spring preload.

   • For larger or more aggressive riders, increase spring preload.

   NOTICE

   A spanner wrench is needed to adjust the preload on IFP shocks.
   (Polaris P/N: 2871095-329)
   TIP

   If suspension is riding low or bottoming out often, increase spring preload.

   If suspension is riding rough or harsh, decrease spring preload.

SHOCK SPRING SETTINGS

Model	Front Shock	Spring Rate	Factory Installed Length	Minimum Allowable Length
Timbersled Ripper	Timbersled IFP	250	7 7/8 in	7 in

Read all sections of your Timbersled owner’s manual, as well as your host bike’s owner’s manual, and refer to the manuals often. The manuals are your guide to a safe and enjoyable experience.

Before driving, manually turn the ski to the left and right to be sure ice and snow are not interfering with full left and right steering. If difficulty is encountered, remove ice and snow build-up that may be obstructing the steering.

Ensure the fork clamps, spindle and ski bolts, and front axle bolt are torqued properly.

Always check the following items for proper operation before starting the engine.

1. Raise and support the front of the snow bike so the ski is approximately 6 in (15 cm) from the ground.

2. Remove the attaching nuts 1 and pry the skag downward.

3. Remove the front end of the skag.

4. Remove the rear end of the skag.

5. Reverse the steps to install a skag.

Proper storage starts with cleaning, washing, and waxing the cowling, side panels, chassis, and plastic parts. Wipe down remaining surfaces with a damp cloth. Clean and touch up with paint any rusted or previously painted surfaces. Be sure that corrosive salt and acids are removed from surfaces before beginning preservation with waxes and rust inhibitors (grease, oil or paint).

The snow bike should be stored in a dry garage or shed, out of direct sunlight, and covered with a fabric snow bike cover. Plastic tarp may cause condensation to form and damage snow bike components.

Moderate track tension should be maintained during summer storage. The snow bike should be supported off the ground to allow the track to hang freely.

1. Place bike on a stand or suitable support where both wheels are off the ground. Secure properly to prevent bike from tipping when wheels are removed. (An adjustable stand is helpful for reassembly.)

2. Remove the seat and side panels.

3. Remove chain by disconnecting master link.

4. Remove the rear brake lever from frame and let hang (this includes the spring).

5. Remove upper rear shock bolt or pin.

   NOTICE

   Keep upper shock bolt for later use as this item will be reinstalled.

6. Remove the rear swing arm bolt (this will drop the entire swing arm assembly off the bike) and remove the shock, tire, brake, and swing arm assembly from the bike as a complete unit.

   NOTICE

   It is recommended to cable tie all bushings, spacers, etc. to their corresponding parts at all pivoting points to prevent losing any parts during storage.

7. Remove the front brake lever and cable retainer bolts from the bike’s front forks. (On some models use the provided cable tie to secure start button).

8. Loosen the front axle bolt and remove the front wheel.

   NOTICE

   Keep front axle bolt for later use; this item will be reinstalled.

9. Remove the front drive sprocket and sprocket cover.

10. Check to ensure all previous steps are complete. You are now ready to start the assembly portion of the process.

1. Position the Timbersled Ripper rear track assembly up to the rear swing arm bolt location on the bike. Some fit kits will require spacers 24/25 on one or either side of the frame, located between the Timbersled Ripper frame mount brackets and the bike’s swing-arm bolt bracket location. See the Swing Arm Spacer Application table at the beginning of this section for specific bike model spacers and locations.

   NOTICE

   Kawasaki^® KLX models do not require any spacers. Honda^® CRF models require left and right swing arm bolt spacers/reducers 24/25. Yamaha^® TTR models require a single spacer positioned on the right side of the bike between the ripper frame bracket and the bike frame.

   

2. Slide provided 7/16” x 6-1/2” swing arm bolt 12 in from the left hand side of the bike and tighten lock nut 13 to listed torque specification.

   TORQUE

   40 ft-lbs (54 N·m)

3. Bolt the lower portion of the strut rod 18 to the rear Timbersled Ripper assembly using the provided bolt 19 and lock nut 20. DO NOT TIGHTEN until after upper portion of strut rod has been bolted in place.

4. See note below before continuing.

   NOTICE

   KAWASAKI^® MODELS ONLY: Skip Step 4 below and complete Steps 5 and 6.

   For Honda^® and Yamaha^® models, continue with Step 4.

   Bolt upper portion of the strut rod 18 into the bike’s upper shock bracket using the bike’s upper shock mount bolt or pin. For bikes using a bolt, torque to the bike manufacturer’s specifications. Once you have the upper portion of the strut rod in place, torque the lower portion of the strut rod to the specification listed below.

   TORQUE

   45 ft-lbs (61 N·m)

   NOTICE

   For Honda^® and Yamaha^® models, continue to the Brake Line Assembly and Routing section.

5. See note below before continuing.

   NOTICE

   This step includes the upper strut rod installation and brake line routing for Kawasaki^® models only.

   Once you’ve completed Step 3 and before you fasten the upper strut rod bolt, move the strut rod 18 up to provide enough clearance, feed the brake line A and master cylinder over top of the rear right sub-frame tubing B of the bike and under the gas tank C as seen in the image below. Now move the top of the strut rod 18 back down into position lining up the mounting holes.

   
   NOTICE

   Some Kawasaki^® models can use secondary bolt hole in the strut rod for lower ride height.

   Finish bolting in place using the original upper strut rod bolt or pin and torque to your specific motorcycle manufacturer’s specifications. Once you have the upper portion of the strut rod in place, torque the lower portion of the strut rod to the specification listed below.

   TORQUE

   45 ft-lbs (61 N·m)

6. Keeping all of the slack out of the brake line, fasten the brake line to the top and the bottom of the strut rod with provided cable ties in the locations D indicated in the image below.

   
   WARNING

   When routing brake lines, it is critical that you keep all brake lines away from any surfaces, such as engine or exhaust, that can become hot while operating the vehicle. Failure to comply will adversely affect the vehicle’s brake system and may lead to severe injury or death.

7. Run the brake line A forward under the bottom of the gas tank along the main frame of the bike towards the bike’s front neck-tube. Make sure there is a minimum of one inch of clearance between the brake line and the lower head set turning stop posts G to prevent the brake line from being pinched. Place another cable tie F around the brake line fastening it to the bike’s throttle cable keeper bracket E. The remaining brake line can free hang up to the master cylinder mounted on the right handle bar. Adjust the pitch of the brake lever, ensuring it is easily reached and easy to pull. Tighten the brake lever perch hand tight being careful to not strip the mounting perch threads. If needed, you can loop any remaining slack in the brake line in between the right fork tube upper and the neck-tube of the bike frame as seen in the photo below (Honda^® model shown for reference).

   
   WARNING

   When routing brake lines, make sure there is a minimum of one inch of clearance between the brake line A and the lower head set turning stop posts G to prevent the brake line from being pinched. Failure to comply will adversely affect the vehicle’s brake system and may lead to severe injury or death.

   NOTICE

   For Kawasaki^® models, once you have completed Step 7, continue to the Drive Chain and Sprocket Assembly section.

Yamaha^® Models

For the Yamaha^® TTR models, run the brake line forward either on top of the strut rod or located parallel against the left hand side of the strut rod. Secure the brake line to the strut rod with a cable tie located at the top of the strut rod and one at the bottom of the strut rod in a similar fashion to the photo for the Honda^® model. From here feed the brake line and master cylinder to the right side of the bike feeding the brake line between the bike’s upper sub-frame column and the wiring harness brackets on the frame. This will help hold the brake line against the bike’s frame and as far away from the exhaust system as possible. From here route the brake line forward towards the front of the bike underneath the bike’s fuel tank. Place another cable tie near the front of the bike securing the brake line to the bike’s lower horizontal frame tube.

Honda^® Models

Remove the two rear gas tank bolts A and loosen the front tank bolt on the bike. Lift up on the rear of the gas tank giving yourself enough room to feed the brake line and master cylinder over top of the rear right sub-frame tubing of the bike and under the gas tank as indicated in the image below R. Feed the brake line forward under the bottom of the gas tank along the main frame of the bike. Keeping all of the slack out of the brake line fasten the brake line to the top and the bottom of the strut rod with cable ties as shown F. Reinstall the two rear gas tank bolts A previously removed and torque to bike manufacturer’s specification. Next, torque the front tank bolt to manufacturer’s specifications. See image below for brake line routing reference R.

Near the front of the bike where the brake line is approaching the front neck tube of the bike, cable tie the brake line to the front gas tank frame mount and another cable tie to the bike’s frame-mounted wire harness on the bike’s neck tube. See photo below for cable tie locations F. The remaining brake line can free hang up to the master cylinder mounted on the right handle bar. Adjust the pitch of the brake lever, ensuring it is easily reached and easy to pull. Tighten the brake lever perch hand tight being careful to not strip the mounting perch threads. See image below:

1. Install provided sprocket 6 onto motorcycle transmission output shaft.

2. Place backer plate spacers 3/4 and chain guard 2 into position on the backer plate 1 as shown and start bolts 10/11 with lock washers 9 as shown to hold spacers and chain guard in position.

   IMPORTANT

   Reference your specific install kit’s content image from the Kit Contents section, for spacer 3/4 and bolt 10/11 locations as they vary per kit. Make sure to use Blue Loctite^® 243 on the provided 3 button head screws 10/11.

3. Next, slide backer plate, spacer and chain guard assembly onto the transmission output shaft and into position.

4. Tighten the sprocket backer plate 1 to the engine case and torque to bike manufacturer’s specifications before chain 7 is installed and chain tension is set.

   NOTICE

   Reference your host bike’s owner’s manual or manufacturer’s specifications for proper torque specifications.

   

5. Route chain 7 around both front and rear sprockets.

6. Complete the assembly of the chain with the master link 8 provided. Be sure to install the master link with the opening of the link facing rearward in relation to the chain direction as shown.

7. Set the proper chain tension by loosening chain slider nut and bolt. Slide the chain slider up or down until 1/2 in – 5/8 in of vertical deflection is met in the upper chord of the drive chain. Torque chain slider nut to specification below when proper tension is achieved.

   TORQUE

   Chain Slider Nut:

   18 ft-lbs (25 N·m)

   NOTICE

   The chain will stretch within the first 5 hours. You MUST check for proper chain tension after this initial break-in period and readjust as necessary. The chain slider is not intended to roll and can be rotated as needed to keep proper chain tension on the usable surface of slider.

1. Locate the front ski A, spindle B, ski rubber C, and provided hardware.

   

2. Place the Ski Rubber C on top of the center of the ski A with the indicated “Front” of the Ski Rubber towards the front tip of the Ski.

   

3. Place the lower portion of the Spindle B on top of the Ski Rubber C in the ski saddle as shown in the image below. Line up the bottom bolt hole and insert the M10 x 155 mm bolt D and install the nut E onto the bolt. Then torque to specification listed below.

   TORQUE

   Spindle Bolt:

   33 ft-lbs (45 N·m)
   WARNING

   Failure to torque fasteners as directed will adversely affect the steering system and may lead to severe injury or death.

   

4. Insert front spindle reducers 22/23 onto the spindle B. Your motorcycle model’s Timbersled Ripper Install Kit will come with the appropriate spindle reducers/spacers for your motorcycle make and model. See the table entitled, Spindle Spacer Application, at beginning of this section for spindle reducer placement for your specific motorcycle model.

   

5. Use the existing front axle bolt F to attach the front spindle B to the forks A. DO NOT TIGHTEN the front axle bolt yet. The front axle bolt can be snug, but should not be fully tightened until you complete Step 6.

   

6. Using the composite fork clamp 14 (fork clamp halves are identical), place one half of the fork clamp in front of the fork tubes with the concave portions sitting around the face of the lower fork tube. Take the other half and mate it around the back side of the fork tubes between the fork tubes and the spindle backer plate B. Take the fork clamp washer plate 15 and place it over the face of the front fork clamp lining up the bolt holes of the washer plate15 with the clamp14. Using the two provided fork clamp bolts 16 supplied with your kit, insert each bolt through one of the two bolt holes (see image below). Apply the supplied locking nuts 17 and torque to specification listed below.

   TORQUE

   Locking Nuts:

   15 ft-lbs (20 N·m)
   

7. Tighten front axle bolt F.

   IMPORTANT

   Refer to manufacturer’s specifications for the front axle bolt’s proper torque setting.

8. Check to ensure all previous steps are complete, and then move on to the Rear Cowling Assembly instructions.

1. Install the rear cowling H with the provided, Qty. — 4 nylon rivet fasteners J. First slide the cowling H forward under the bike’s rear fender. Make sure the front left chain guard portion of the cowling is positioned behind the drive sprocket plate.

   

2. Next, start with the front left side mounting hole K and insert nylon rivet fastener J. Repeat this process for the front right side mounting hole L, inserting nylon rivet fastener securely.

   NOTICE

   The rear cowling is pliable, the easiest process for lining up the rear fastener mounting holes of the skid frame with the cowling holes is to pull out on the bottommost part of the cowling in the middle of the molding. This will pull the rear hole in the cowling forward allowing you to line up the holes to insert the nylon rivet fasteners.

3. Repeat this process for both the left M and then the right N rear mounting holes.

4. Check to ensure all tools are accounted for and all steps have been completed in the proper order.